當(dāng)白鵝浮水引吭時(shí)，7歲的駱賓王隨口吟誦出千古名句“白毛浮綠水，紅掌撥清波”。
當(dāng)白鵝來到吳山鎮(zhèn)，它們飛上餐桌，變成一道道美食，點(diǎn)綴在吳山的四五十家店中。
剛出爐的吳山貢鵝 Newly braised Wushan Gong'e Goose
Whenseeing a gaggling goose swim, the then seven-year-old Luo Binwang (638—684) recited casually, “in water a white goose floats,with red webs making ripples". The verse has been popular over one thousand years, even up to today. In Wushan Town, white goose is a delicacy served at dining tables. Almost 50 restaurants there offer braised goose.
從合肥出發(fā)，向東北而行，40 公里后，便到吳山鎮(zhèn)，遍地的“吳山貢鵝”4 個(gè)大字映入眼簾。看著看著，空氣中飄來一股股濃濃的香氣，那是肉香和草木香的味覺道場(chǎng)。抬頭望去，只見飛檐翹角，雕欄含香，精致的門頭，讓人恍如穿越到了唐末五代十國。彼時(shí)，吳國的創(chuàng)立者楊行密被唐昭宗封為吳王。他為官清廉，人民安居樂業(yè)。當(dāng)?shù)匕傩站囱�，以�?dāng)?shù)匕座Z配上美味佐料，制成鹵鵝獻(xiàn)給吳王，吳王食之大悅，說：“此鵝堪稱‘貢品’。”從此，“吳山貢鵝”名揚(yáng)天下。
在吳山貢鵝的后廚里，一排大鍋正在鹵制，只見熱氣騰騰，湯汁翻滾，肉色鮮艷，廚師忙著給鵝肉翻身，顛勺往返于大鍋之間。這時(shí)候，鵝肉將熟，你只得控制住嘴巴，用意念吃上一只，像極了小時(shí)候過年，大人炸麻花、丸子時(shí)，你流下口水，踱來踱去，卻只能等大人們將麻花和丸子敬過先人后，才能大快朵頤。
制作貢鵝 Making Wushan Gong'e Goose
When strolling in Wushan Town,Changfeng County, Hefei, you can see Wushan Gong'e Goose (tribute goose) on sign boards almost everywhere. The upturned cornices, carved railings and exquisitely decorated facades of restaurants make you feel as if you were back to the late Tang Dynasty or the period of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms.
At that time, Yang Xingmi, founder of the Wu Kingdom later, had been made King of Wu by Emperor Zhaozong of the Tang Dynasty.
He kept his governance clean and made people live and work in peace and contentment. To express their respect, local people presented him local goose braised with special condiments. The king was so pleased after tasting the food that he said, "I have been poor since my childhood, and I dare not forget my past suffering. This food is so delicious and it can be rated as tribute to emperor". Ever since then, the goose cooked in Wushan has been known as a tribute far and near.
In the kitchen of a restaurant, a row of big woks are in braising the goose. The soup is boiling, the meat alluring, and the smell inviting. Moving busily between the cooking cauldrons, chefs turn the goose over.
制作貢鵝的部分調(diào)料 Some spices for making Wushan Gong'e Goose
鵝肉剛出鍋時(shí)，表皮飽含湯汁和油，色澤金黃，冒著熱氣，讓人食欲大振。待鵝肉放涼，可切一只或者半只鵝帶回家，配上三大件——鵝頭、鵝翅、鵝爪，還有五小件——鵝心、鵝肝、鵝舌、鵝腸、鵝胗，約上三兩好友閑坐，喝著小酒，吃著鵝肉，啃著翅膀，推杯換盞，好不快哉。
也可以在店里吃，點(diǎn)個(gè)全鵝宴。其配套佳肴，也是以濃香味美的鵝湯做配料。鵝肉色澤清爽，吃起來肉質(zhì)細(xì)嫩，肥而不膩，咸香適中，手不油，嘴不膩，讓人回味無窮。愛啃膀子爪子的伙伴兒，更是嘴不停歇，連啃幾只不在話下。不僅是味美，鵝肉還有健脾養(yǎng)胃、清熱解毒等功效。愛好美食的人們，偏要吃出趣味來，如吃鵝爪是“腳踏實(shí)地”，吃鵝翅要“展翅高飛”，最后吃鵝頭方能“獨(dú)占鰲頭”。飯桌上，你要是說出這么一番話，想必又要加菜了。
貢鵝好吃，自然生意紅火。據(jù)了解，在吳山鎮(zhèn)，從事貢鵝鹵制的餐飲店有 40 多家，在合肥城內(nèi)更多。吳山貢鵝還走出合肥，在省內(nèi)及江浙一帶時(shí)有見到�，F(xiàn)代的真空包裝快遞業(yè)務(wù)，更是讓吳山貢鵝遠(yuǎn)銷全國各地。
秘制香料 老鹵提香 Special spices and special brine that enrich the flavor
Just after being taken out of the wok, the goose skin is full of broth and oil, golden in color, steaming, and appetizing. When it is cool, you may take home one or a half for your family, or you may share the delicacy with some friends over a few cups of baijiu.That would be very enjoyable.
You may also enjoy a feast with the food made of a whole goose in a restaurant, where even other matching courses are made with the thick and nice- smelling goose broth. The braised goose meat is light in color and tender in texture, with a lingering aftertaste. In addition to the delectable taste, people say, goose meat nourishes the spleen and stomach, makes people strong, and even has the function of cooling down internal heat.
Thanks to the scrumptious taste, the business is prosperous.According to statistics, there are more than 40 restaurants engaged in braised goose in Wushan Town, more in Hefei. At the same time, the business spreads out of Hefei and beyond Anhui to Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Modern vacuum packaging and express delivery facilitate the business to reach every corner of the country.
文字：殷艷萍
圖片：張忠建 楊道文 王潔 張倩瑩
